THE REAL RE-Edit brings you...Everything that you need to know about the Paris Fall 2009 Menswear shows- in black and white...It seems like even though we have hit a rough patch in the world economy, menswear continues to thrive (with few exceptions; the house of Valentino shocked sartorialists when it decided NOT to show in Milan this season). However, as it seems there is a definite divide between the haves and have-nots these days, and while we mostly look to Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel for what appears to be his signature stark black/white color palette, a lot of other designers also thought in clear terms of black and white, sometimes with shades of grey in the balance. Whether it was an equestrian theme (at Ann Demeulemeester),
Thierry Mugler's ever-expanding fashion-as-fetish-wear theme,
The "German-pop/synch-music-hipster" aesthetic that Bruno Pieters sent down the Hugo by Hugo Boss runway (monocle sunglasses not included!),
Or the Olde English motif that John Galliano played with, it was ALL there- in black and white, with a complexity not usually communicated in menswear design using such a monochromatic canvas. While he DID inject color into some looks while employing a "Pirates-of-Penzance-meets-John-Quincy-Adams-and-Benjamin-Franklin" effect, black and white still prevailed:
Galliano even employed tulle, which is something that men may not be ready for (see: "A Couple of Things that We, as Menswear consumers,May Not Be Ready For" below)...
Even Jean Paul Gaultier, known for his exotic use of color, used the black and white theme (both as color palette and commentary on race, replete with black nationalist afros!)...
(Yes, those ARE CHILDREN on Gaultier's runway!)
Raf Simons incorporated black and white (and some grey) into a Trench:
AND into suiting looks:
Kris Van Assche also repeated the black/white coda for Dior Homme
While everyone (present company included!) EXPECTED Rei Kawakubo to default to Comme des Garcon's signature black and white palette, she shocked everyone by offering- COLOR; pale violets etched onto wool blazers and cotton sweaters,
...Along with mint green hats from milliner Stephen Jones,
...Even PLAID, argyle, floral
The dirth of color on the runways aside, what was also abundantly clear (in concise, black-and-white-and-no-in-between terms) was that luxury would not be compromised. While some might question Hermes' use of tomato and shocking yellow to offset the somberness of otherwise monochromatic collection, it could be argued that the stark contrast offered by that of a neon yellow seemed to ground the luxuriousness of the cashmere and wool gabardine...
Even when Demeulemeester used touches of creme and brown, its earthiness was juxtaposed with the opulence of (goat)fur...
Demuelemeester. Cerruti, and Yamamoto showed that even an exaggerated (but luxurious!) knit wasn't content to just be run-of-the-mill:
(Demeulemeester...)
(Cerruti...)
(Yohji Yamamoto...)
-This season, the common accessory appears to be a knee-high boot (see Thierry Mugler above), as if to fully protect the shins while stomping down the Rue Saint-Germain. Also offering a HOT boot game was
(Gareth Pugh...)
(John Galliano's swashbuckling service...)
Kris Van Assche used a slouched combat boot in his eponymous collection:
...While Rick Owens shuffled onto the runway what amounted to a slouched Fishing boot:
And Now, The REAL RE-Edit "Le Monde" Awards (a.k.a., Le Parisienne Creme de la Creme...)
Best bag of the Paris shows: Louis Vuitton black logo-embossed tote
-It appears that the accessory of choice has shifted amongst the sexes, as it is becoming more and more of a necessity for a well-turned out man to carry an equally-as-well-appointed bag. Although unapologetic luxe seemed to be the theme of the collection (check the alligator "cadet" jacket to the left!), Louis Vuitton was VERY bag-heavy, showing models with sometimes with more than one bag at a time...
Sometimes the bags hinged on birkin-like hardware, as evidenced by my favorite bag of the collections (Louis Vuitton tote with an Hermes flourish? Are you surprised it's my favorite?!!!) 
(although Hermes, surprisingly, showed NO bags in its menswear show!)
Best use of patterns...Junya Watanabe
While most seem to just be throwing plaids, stripes and the like together with wreckless abanson, Watanabe shows us how to do it right, even mixing in quilts...
Most overhyped (and underwhelming) fashion accessory: Louis Vuitton's sneakers designed by Kanye West
We can't knock Kanye's hustle; the man is creative, outspoken and enterprising. However, when we heard month's back that he was designing a shoe line for Louis Vuitton we were breathless with anticipation: would "The Louis Vuitton Don" be able to do it? As of right now, THE REAL RE-Edit's feeling is a resounding "no". As fashion-forward as West portends himself to be, the reality is that we can find these kind of kicks at any Billionaire Boys Club, Bathing Ape or Kid Robot storefront (or Puma, for that matter!) We will hold out hope for 'Ye, but as of now he needs to get back to the drawing board! Marc Jacobs must have felt the same way, because only one pair of Kanye's sneakers made it into the actual runway show (he has reportedly designed 5 styles) ...
Coolest separate of the Paris collections:
Raf Simons' beautifully-crafted torso cutout sweater was the most innovative, allowing you to wear it with a woven- or with NOTHING underneath if you wanna show those gym-punished pecs!
Most disappointing collection: Stefano Pilati for YSL
Not even luxurious crocodile, cashmere and crepe de chine would save this incredibly boring collection. It's so boring that THE REAL RE-Edit will refrain from taking up valuable blog space here...
Most luxurious, anti-PETA piece of the Paris Shows...(tie)
Looks like the estimated 2 million members of People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) may have something else to rally around, because there are two contenders for the "best skins in menswear" title this season. Its is a toss-up between Louis Vuitton's Alligator cadet jacket (see above) and Rick Owens' fur-trimmed alligator vest! 
Further proof that alligator just isn't for shoes anymore...
Biggest trend of the season(s): Pajamas as outwear...
Silk pajama ensembles seem to be having their moment in the spotlight- not as nightwear, but marketed as EVENINGwear! In theory, or course, silk pajamas as eveningwear are less YSL's Le Smoking aesthetic and more for Le SLEEPING.
Tom Ford touched on it two seasons ago (when the items were all the rage at his newly-minted Madison Avenue stand-alone store). Then Sessilee Lopez was photographed for an editorial in W Magazine donning Ford's pajamas with a sickening pair of stilettos- the image was very elegant. They then showed up last year on the Prada and Lanvin runways. Duckie Brown and Z Zegna followed suit. This summer, Dolce and Gabbana carted out their silk chiffon version (with an advertising campaign built around them photographed by Steven Klein)...
Even Bottega Veneta and Giorgio Armani showed pajama-inspired clothes in Milan.
Now Yohji Yamamoto joins the fray...
While pushing the envelope for actual ready-to-wear, when done right they are great fashion editorial efforts. However, THE REAL RE-Edit is just afraid that some fashion victims will jump the shark, and now we'll be seeing people wandering around Soho in their satin two-pieces in the name of couture... (Yes, Jessica Alba, we're talking to YOU! Since THE REAL RE-Edit is separated from Alba's stylist by only 2 degrees, we'll be quiet and leave it at that!) 
-Proof That President Obama's Election Has Global Implications" Award:
Gaultier's afro'd commentary on race was well executed, but it seemed excessive and somewhat hamfisted in comparison to Lanvin's statement. Alber Elbaz and Lucas Ossindrijver closed the show with a Barack Obama stand-in, replete in three-quarter top coat with the requisite million-dollar smile, waving rather presidentially to those in attendance as he sold the last look of the show- the same look that the REAL American President will utilize in currently trying to sell his economic stimulus package to the Republicans stateside...
A couple of things that we, as menswear consumers, may not be ready for:
-Men in Mary Janes (at Comme des Garcons)
-Men in garter belts (at Galliano)
-Men in Culottes (at Yohji Yamamoto):
(Although, if your a "Yohji" kinda guy, you don't care whether other men are ready for culottes or not- STYLE knows no hesitation!)
A new fashion "beef"... Just when we were getting over Mr. Valentino's public lashing of Alessandra Fachinetti, Giorgio Armani tries to bring it to Dolce and Gabbana over quilted pants.... (read about it here). Is Armani claiming sovereignty over the quilted pant, because if so he may want to consult with Junya Watanabe as well (see Junya Watanabe above)...Is there a new East Coast/West Coast "wrap" war in the making?
The REAL FLASHBACK...
Since this is a Fashion-heavy post, let's do something fashion-related.
On the menswear front, even though Andre 3000's fashion line, Benjamin Bixby, may be in trouble, let's remember when his fashion sense was heavily paid-attention to. Remember Outkast's controversially-titled "Rosa Parks"?
1 comment:
I looooved the Yamamoto collection!
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